The art of fitting a saddle to both horse and rider is something which is not explained in a few sentences; indeed something new can be learned  every day, as each client brings with him or herself something different to consider. We work very closely with veterinarians and physiotherapists and other equine professionals to constantly ensure the most optimal combination of horse, rider and saddle.

"A well-designed and correctly fitted saddle is vital to the performance of both horse and rider.  Whatever type of saddle is chosen, the main consideration is that it should fit both horse and rider.  To check that it does so, not only must the rider sit on it, but it should be put on the horse and its fit must be studied before it is bought.  A badly fitting saddle not only causes discomfort to the horse and rider, but can actually stop a horse from moving properly.  The tree and panels of a saddle should be chosen to fit the horse, and the seat and flap length should be chosen to fit the rider.''

The proper way to measure the seat size of an English saddle is diagonally from either saddle nail, on the side of the pommel, to the centre of the cantle.  Adult seat sizes vary from 16" to 19", with 17" to 17 1/2" being the most common.  You must try out several makes to see which feels most comfortable, because even half an inch can make a difference.  Different makes of the same size can also feel differently.  In addition, the saddle trees vary in width at the twist (where the saddle is between your legs), the deepest point, and in the amount of seat foam, which is essentially the padding. There are of course different “fads” and popular riders which influence choices in forward or rear seat, deepest points, etc. When you have found a model which feels comfortable to you, it must be taken to the horse to see how it fits on its back.  Saddle size must take into consideration not only the size for the rider, but also the length of the horse’s back. Much can be done with panels to ensure that comfort of the horse is paramount – for instance, if you have a small person (with a 17” saddle) and a very long-backed horse, the panels may be lengthened to ensure the saddle distributes weight far enough back on the horse to ensure balance and comfort – otherwise, the rider may be sitting too far forward if only her seat size is taken into consideration.

Flap size and location must also be considered – this is why certain anatomical measurements on the rider are important to ensure that the leg is properly “covered” by the flap and positioned properly.

The correct positioning on the horse is vital.  The saddle should be placed on the horse's back at the withers and then pushed back (to make sure the hairs are smoothed down).  The points (where the tree is put into the flaps) should be directly behind the shoulder blades.  The centre of the saddle should lie horizontally to the ground to ensure proper positioning of the deepest point.   

When viewed from behind it is easy to see if the saddle is straight.  Between the withers and the pommel there should be two to three fingers clearance, since this space will be decreased with the weight of the rider, and the pull of the girth.  (The withers are one of the places many saddles are too "tight" on the horse, causing extreme discomfort. Veterinarians refer to this as the “vise grip” on the horse’s back). 

The saddle should at no point touch the backbone along the whole of its length. The chamber should be wide enough in order not to interfere with the spinal processes of the horse's back.  

The rider should then get on to see if his or her seated position is correct - for instance, for dressage the shoulders, hips and heels should be in one straight vertical line.  One frequent problem is that (due to insufficient or improper stuffing) many riders find themselves sitting too far back in the saddle..  An attempt to alleviate this is usually done with a keyhole (or other) pad, which in effect does nothing, because the rubber compresses so tightly as to have an almost non-existent effect.  In addition, the rubber gives one the feeling of "swimming" on the horse's back.  This situation can be remedied with proper re-stuffing or a panel wedge in the event that greater height is required to bring the rider more forward in the position..  Proper stuffing does not always mean more stuffing.  The panel is essentially a cushion and too much stuffing (which can be as bad as too little) can harden the panel to the extent of losing the cushioning effect. With a properly fitting saddle you should only need a thin, quilted cotton pad – to protect the leather, nothing more!

Most new saddles are filled fairly loosely with a wool/synthetic mix, which takes about six months of regular riding to settle onto the shape of the horse's back.  At this time the first re-stuffing should be done, with check-ups about every two years after. Keep in mind that there are a minimum of 15 extraneous influences which can play a role in determining how well your saddle fits and continues to fit. These include:

 The area where the saddle sits on a horse's back is essentially straight, but if you view your saddle from underneath, many times the panel will be rounded to a great extent, which results in "rocking" on the horse. (see my previous article on the theory behind this rocking) The panel itself should not only be essentially flat, (at least for the first 2/3), but also fairly wide, in order to allow the maximum weight distribution over the horse's back.  

We look to the western saddle in our designs - the quarter horse is a working horse, which it certainly would object to if it weren't saddled comfortably! Conversely, those saddles filled with a foam or rubber ''ready-made'' panel are a gamble - they either fit or they don't. However, the panels can be changed to wool or even air.  

"Using a numnah (saddle pad) is not a remedy for a badly fitting saddle, nor will it compensate for faulty stuffing, except as a temporary expedient."

"Unless the rider has a definite intention to specialize in a particular area of equestrianism, a general purpose saddle is probably the best answer.  However, personal preferences, body size as well as type of horse, should all be considered when buying a saddle."

Quotes are reprinted from Julie Richardsen's Horse Tack (Complete Equipment for Riding and Driving). (New York, 1981).